Lack of a Sponsor, but….

The September edition of London Fashion Week (LFW) is usually more versatile and larger than the February edition – in short it is more entertaining, and importantly more enlightening than the winter edition. The lack of a sponsor this year – it used to be Monsoon in the past – impacted EstEthica’s curation surprisingly positively. In fact: Monsoon’s public image and target segment (young fast fashion shoppers) did not do the EstEthica designers any good in lifting their reputation. The lack of a sponsor in this case, has done a world of good to the quality of the exhibition.

Further, this season’s EstEthica edition must be judged as probably the best-as-of-yet. The best EstEthica ever so to speak. Ethical fashion related hence, the news are overall doing well. Whether this is, or not, a side effect of the industry overall (potentially) recovering, or whether it is because ‘the show (and business) must go on, is difficult to say.

But the fact remains: Not only did London see this season the first ever ‘ethical’ Vogue’s Fashion Night Out (organised by Studio Tammam); but never has there been an EstEthica as well curated as this time, and never has there been so much innovation around and in the air at either EstEthica or EcoLuxe. Maybe more importantly: some of seasoned former EstEthica brands, such as Christopher Raeburn or Noki, have manage to put their foot firmly down in the mainstream fashion track – notably without losing their credentials or design signature.

First-time Brands on Show

The most interesting part is of course always the first-time brands on show, of which there were (in order of how they appear on the LFW EstEthica website):

Via: REWARDROBE

Honest by Bruno Pieters

This is probably the most exciting brand currently on the market. Bruno Pieters challenges the mainstream perception of what you know about fashion. And does it well. Check out the brand’s website and look at the degree of detail of the information available for each garment. Want to know where your wool jacket grazed? This is the place to shop. Every single step in the garment’s manufacturing process has been accounted for – with names and addresses – in one of the following four categories: Material information, manufacturing details, price calculation, carbon footprint.
And yes – even the price calculations are made public!
Definitely the most forward looking venture in a long, long time. And style wise – it’s all about classy. You buy once, and you’ll be happy to wear it for a few seasons …

Via: REWARDROBE

Mich Dulce

So few words, so much meaning: Finally a millinery label that combines style with ‘good’ business. Her interest in rare fibers, among them also Pinha, is just one of the extraordinary things that makes this designer’s products so attractive.

Via: REWARDROBE

Auria X Margot Bowman

Swim wear from recycled polyamid – really innovative. But it’s the colours that make it really cool to wear. None of that ‘rich and posh middle aged lady’ stuff. But for all those who actually do swim and do water sports, but want to look dashing without it costing the world. Made in Portsmouth!

Via: REWARDROBE

Carla Fernandez

Accessories inspired and made by indigenous communities from all over Mexico. With ethnic inspirations, but it is the stuff you really want to wear to feel comfortable in style. The designers work approach is unique: Together with her design team and in a ‘design van’, she goes around Mexican indigenous communities to work with traditional artisans. Together, they use ancient craft techniques and update the designs to be contemporary. A mix of social enterprise and design adventure, the outcomes are promising. In particular the scarves, ponchos and filigree jewelry is an eye catcher.

Via: REWARDROBE

Lorico

The designs of TV princesses it is what Jerome Lorico creates. But beyond that, he’s an expert in working with Pinha (pineapple) fiber. All his designs are made from a cotton/pinha mix, grown in their native habitat, and knitted on hand-knitting machines in one small workshop in Manila. Jerome’s got a real passion for the pinha fiber to gain international recognition, and that what his work is ultimately motivated by.

Via: REWARDROBE

Victim Fashion Street

This is the ‘odd one out’ among the whole group of EstEthica designers, and carries on the tradition introduced (I think) by Noki: a bit grunge, a bit wild, a bit punk all it one. Different indeed.

Via: REWARDROBE

White Tent

A young British-Portuguese label that combines classic color with a young street style flavor.

Conclusion

2 main things could be observed when scratching the surface of what the designs offer beyond mere visuals.

*A typical materials start to finally creep into the designers consciousness. Pinha as a fashion material is nearly unheard of, as are recycled polyamid and poly-paper are but examples. This is good news, because much of what the sustainability discussion in fashion will be about is alternative materials to cotton and polyester.

•Ethical fashion is growing up. There is less grunge and rock’n’roll, and more street and business style, right down to sharp cuts suitable for board meetings in a high-salaried environment. This is good news.

•New types of garments start to get ‘ethical’ coverage: ladies’ hats, swimwear, underwear are just the top of the iceberg.

•Transparency and traceability is venturing into the limelight. And with this, the fact that consumers will – hopefully rather sooner than later – be able to make well informed decision about what they buy.

•Sustainable fashion need by no means to be expensive. Yvian (who exhibited at EcoLuxe) sells at around £150 (trousers) to £250 (girl’s tuxedo); Arli (also EcoLuxe) at round £80. That Junky Styling (EstEthica) is affordable, in principle, is old news. Of course it is not Uniqlo. But it is far from what I would consider ‘expensive’, and very much in the range of what a good garment costs at a quality high street retailer brands such as Natural Beauty Basic.